![]() It isn’t simply the common constituent elements - succulents, pastels, a menu marked by virtue, breezy yet precise branding - it’s the gestalt that’s the tell. At its best, the all-day café is the living room you’ll never have, filled with food familiar yet better than you’ll ever make and eaten by people more attractive than you’ll ever be. Like a good Hinge profile, what defines these all-day cafés is hard to pin down, but you feel it in your bones. And as rosy-fingered dawn began her journey across the sky, finally she had something good to eat. Like cane toads in Canberra, cafés that opened their doors early and kept them open late began popping up. Then came the Australians, with their brassicas bowls and sunny dispositions. Culinary ambition in New York used to be a strictly nocturnal affair.
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